Beginner Rope Bondage

Common Misconceptions About Bondage

• Rope is always slow going
• True riggers only use hemp or jute rope
• You have to be an expert to get started
• Suspensions are the pinnacle of bondage
• There is only one true way to do "X"
• Rope is only for thin, flexible people

Rope qualities

Types of rope

• Natural Fiber – Hemp, jute, sisal, cotton, coconut
  • Better “tooth”, so it grabs better and takes fewer knots to hold securely
  • Tends not to stretch as much or as inconsistently, so recommended

for suspension

• • Doesn’t take dye as well
  • More expensive
• Synthetic Fiber – MFP (multi-fiber propylene), nylon, poly-pro, parachute cord
  • Less expensive
  • Perfectly fine for most types of bondage
  • Nylon and MFP takes dye very well, poly pro or mixed material does not
• Common thicknesses
  • 3/8, 5/16, 8mm – These heavier strands are okay for some types of ties. They distribute force across the skin so they don’t cut into flesh and can be more comfortable for some, but can be bulky when you start to knot.
  • 1/4, 6mm – Medium strands are a good general use thickness, and very versatile.
  • 3/16, 4mm, 1/8, 2mm – Light strands are good for delicate work or hojojitsu, but they can and will put much

greater pressure on the skin.

• “Normal” or “good” lengths
• 5 arm lengths (~25-30 feet), 3 arm lengths (~15-18 feet), 2 arm lengths (~10-12 feet)
• Longer ropes can be useful for certain types of ties (rope corsets, karadas on taller/larger

body types, etc.) but you might sacrifice tie speed by having to pull lots of rope. Normally this is solved by joining ropes to lengthen/extend them when needed.